Method of making shoes



Feb. 13, 1940.

J. B. HADAWAY METHOD 0F MAKING sHoEs original Filed Dec. so, '1955 Patented Feb. 13, 1940 of Flemington, N.` J Jersey original application Decembreo, 1935, serial No,

56,693. Divided and ber 28, 193'1',` Serial No. 1662235:

1 claim. (ohra-i425 i This invention rela shoes.

Objects of the tes to methods or making invention are to improve andI l render less expensive shoes of the type in which I one marginal portion of a piece of welting is zattached in a substantially flat condition tol the overlasted portion of a shoe upper and the other marginal portion is attached tol an outsole. The weltingy employed in making my improved shoe is preferably, though not necessarily, made bythe method disclosed and claimed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 2,139,746, granted December 13, 1938, upon my application, of which this application is a division.

The invention comprises a method of making shoes `which consists in providing leather welting having a thick outer portion with a grain vface and a thin inner portion of uniform thickness, attaching the welting to the peripheral portion I ofan outsole with its grain face uppermost and with its thick edge flush with the edge of the outsole, and cementattaching the thin portion of the welting to the overlasted portion of the upper of a shoe, the inner edge of the welting being Preferably the inner portion of the exposed grain face of the welting is roughened before it is cement-attached to the shoe and the entire cement bond is preferably between the upper and the welting. o

In the drawing: o

Fig. 1 is a View in section and perspective of a piece of welting rectangular in cross-section upon which my novel method of preparing welting may be practised; ,o

Fig. 2 is a view in section and perspective showing the steps of beveling the welting and splitting it from its outer edge inwardly nearly to its inner edge;

40 Fig. 3 is a view in section and perspective of the welting after it has been unfolded and turned to bring its grain face uppermost;

Fig. 4 is a perspective View showing attached to a shoe outsole; o

Fig. 5 is a sectional detail View showing the Welted outsole cement-attached to th portion of a shoe upper; l,

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 5 showingthe welt and outsole secured together by `stitches flocated in a channel in the outsole;

Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 6, thestitches the welting which hold the welt and `outsole together being I 2,189,9s METHOD or MAIUNG sHoEs John B. Hadaway, Swampscott; Mass., assigner to United Shoe MachineryxCorporation, Borough 1 substantially ush with the edge of the upper.

e overlasted P'Iirenr orFirm--4 a `corporationof New this application Septemo es through" the welt and-outsole may be p before the sole is attached tothe shoe; o

In vpractising `my novel` methodof making' shoes,I employ welting ID rectangularincross: section, as shown in Fig. 1, such welting havinga flesh face I2 and agrainface I4, Preferably,v thoughfnotnecessarily, the inner-portion of `the welting may be reduced onits flesh faceya's shown inFig.` 2, so that the welting has a relatively thick outer edge face I6 and a relatively thin inner edge I8. The welting is next splitby a cut 20 which extends from the outer edge face I6 of the welting toward the inner edge I8 at a uniform distance from the flesh face I2. Preferably the cut 20 is made substantially nearer theiiesh face I2 than the grain face I4 so thatthe welting most, that is in contact with the shoe upper, and I its split surface in contact with the outsole.

In utilizing welting thus prepared in the manufacture of shoes, an outsole 26 is rounded to the proper shape and size for attachment to a shoe which is to have an extension edge. A 'strip of welting prepared as described and as shown in Fig. 4 is attached, preferably with cement, 'to the esh face of the outsole `26 from the breast line around the forepart and back to thebreast line. 'I'he grain face I4 of the welting thus attached will generally be wider than it is desirable to expose beyond the upper in the finished shoe. Accordingly, a portion of the grain surface may be roughened off, as indicated at 28 inv Fig. 4, this roughening of course being done throughout the extent 'of the welt. Preferably the outer margins of the part 24 of the welting and of the outsole 26 are secured together'by lockstitches 30 which may either be hidden in a usual channel 32 in the outsole 26, as shown in Fig. 6, or the shoe may be stitched aloft, `the stitches being exposed on the bottom ofthe sole,

as shown in Fig. 7. If desired,vthe stitching 3U may be omitted until after the sole is attached to the shoe, as indicated in Fig.\5, and may then be inserted, in which case at least the outerportion ofthe welting will be secured tothe periph-l eral portion of the outsole by a suitable cement,`

After the sole has been prepared as illustrated in Fig. 4, the roughened surfaces of the Welt, which .will include the surface I2 and the portion of the surface I4 Which has been roughened, are cemented and the cement allowed to dry. A shoe upper 34 and a lining 36 Will be lasted in any usual manner over an insole 38, and the surface of the overlasted portion 4l) of the upper will be roughened, cement applied thereto and the cement` allowed to dry. The cement employed may t be either the usual pyroxylin cement employed in f cement sole attaching or the polymerized chloro' prene cement disclosed in the application for Letters Patent of the United States'Serial No. 51,114, led November 225 1935, in the name of Alexander D. Macdonald. In case pyroxylin cement is employed, the cement on either the lupper or the welt or both will be activated and the shoe and sole subjected to pressure in a suitable press to cause the Welt to be bonded to the overlasted upper. In the case of polymerized chloroprene cement which `is pressure-responsive no special activation would be necessary before the sole-attaching pressure is applied.

If the stitching together of the welt and outsole has been deferred until after the cement attachment of the Welt to the upper, as indicated by `Fig. 5, the stitches 3i) may then be inserted by the usual outsole stitching machine, the location of the stitches being guided from the surface of the shoe upper 34. Of course, if either of the cements suggested above is employedfor cement-attaching the welt 22, 24 to the sole 26, no stitching of the welt to the outsole will be necessary.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Lettersl Patent of the United States is:

That improvement in methods of making shoes Which consists in providing leather Welting with a thick, inwardly tapering outer portion having a grain face and a thin inner portion of uniform thickness, attaching the Welting to the peripheral portion of an outsole with its grain face upperlvmost and with its thick edge flush with the edge JOHN B. HADAVVAY. 

